Dharamshala in winter is a different town. The summer crowd thins out, the afternoons are shorter, and the cafes turn the heaters on. Snow arrives unpredictably between late December and early February, and when it does, the town is quietly magical for about forty-eight hours and then just cold for the rest of the week.
Temperatures
McLeod Ganj sits at 2,082 metres. Night temperatures from mid-December to mid-February drop to between minus two and plus three degrees. Day temperatures stay between four and thirteen. The valley floor at Kangra stays warmer by about five degrees. Bir is warmer still. Many travellers who arrive in January end up spending half their trip down in Bir, where the sun is stronger.
What closes
The Triund cafes close from mid-December to mid-March. The paragliding season in Bir shuts entirely from mid-December to mid-February. Many of the smaller bakeries in Dharamkot hibernate. The Norbulingka cafe keeps its soup and coffee menu. Norbulingka itself stays open, with reduced hours.
What stays open
The Tsuglagkhang complex, the Library of Tibetan Works, Namgyal Monastery, St. John in the Wilderness, Kangra Fort, Masroor temples, the Andretta galleries, and Baijnath temple are all open year-round. A winter sightseeing circuit is possible and often better because you have the places to yourself.
Can you still trek?
Yes, but not to Triund the way you would in May. A guided winter ascent is doable with four-season gear and the right pace. Most operators do not offer this because the demand is low. We do it in small groups of no more than four. If you are experienced and properly equipped, the ridge in February is a cathedral.
What to pack
Proper winter layers. Four-season sleeping bag if you are camping. Hand warmers from Delhi. A humidifier if you are sensitive, because the dry air and heaters combined will hurt your throat after two nights. A pair of Yaktrax or ice grips if snow is forecast, because the McLeod Ganj lanes turn into a skating rink within hours of a snowfall.
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